Explain how the ocean floor affects when and how waves break. Explain how the ocean floor affects when and how waves break.

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Explain how the ocean floor affects when and how waves break. Explain how the ocean floor affects when and how waves break.

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Đan Thu 4 years 2021-09-02T17:09:02+00:00 1 Answers 1 views 0

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  1. minhkhang
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    2021-09-02T17:10:33+00:00
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    Answer:

    As waves approach the shore, the bottom of the wave meets the ocean floor. As they drag across the bottom, the front waves slow down, and wavelength is reduced. … When the wave steepness (the ratio between wave height and wavelength) exceeds a ratio of 1:7, it becomes unstable and breaks.

    Explanation:

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